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Five pollinator seedlings with an eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis) as the anchor. Redbud opens as early as March, before its own leaves are out, when there is almost nothing else blooming for the bees that have just woken up. Bees and butterflies work the flowers, and twelve butterfly species use the tree as a larval host.
We pick the four supporting natives for your region and from what is in the ground that season, so no two bundles are identical. All five arrive bareroot, peat-wrapped and shipped together on one shipping charge, and the packing slip names exactly what came in your box.
Redbud is hardy in zones 4 through 9, tops out around 30 feet, and takes full sun to partial shade. This is a bundle for a fence line, a yard corner, or the sunny edge of a woodlot. It is not a fruit crop. Five plants set as a group give pollinators something a single tree cannot: a real patch of early bloom.
Five seedlings chosen to feed bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds from early spring through summer. Eastern redbud, buttonbush, and American beautyberry are the core, and the other seedlings vary with the season.
Open the box the day it arrives and plant within 2 to 3 days if you can. Your seedlings are dormant and bare-root, so no leaves and no soil is exactly how they should look.
Check the peat around the roots. It should feel like a wrung-out sponge. If it has dried in transit, sprinkle it with water and re-wrap.
If you can't plant right away, keep the bundle wrapped, damp, and cool. An unheated garage, shed, or cellar between 35 and 45°F will hold the seedlings for about a week. Keep them out of sun, wind, and freezing temperatures.
If you need longer than a week, heel them in. Dig a shallow trench in a shaded spot, lay the roots in, cover them with loose damp soil or mulch, and water.
On planting day, soak the roots in a bucket of plain water for 1 to 2 hours and carry the seedlings to the site in the bucket. Bare roots can dry out in minutes of sun and wind.
Plant in two rows: the redbud and your tallest other seedling in back on the north side, the shrubs in front on the sunny side. The bed takes about 35 by 30 feet.
[embed: node/194549b2-259e]Put the buttonbush at whichever end of the bed stays wettest. Flip the layout left to right if your low spot is on the other side.
The two open spots are for the other seedlings in your box. Use their labels and the section on other seedlings below to decide which goes in back and which in front.
The three core plants bloom one after another, so something is flowering from March into August. Beautyberry then carries the bed into fall with fruit for songbirds.
Plant | Bloom | Zones | Sun | Soil | Mature height (ft) | Spacing (ft) | Feeds |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Eastern redbud | March–April | 4–9 | Sun to part shade | Adaptable, well-drained | 20–30 | 15–20 | Early native bees |
American beautyberry | June–July, berries September–October | 6–10 | Sun to part shade | Moist, well-drained | 3–6 | 4–6 | Bees, then songbirds |
Buttonbush | June–August | 5–9 | Full sun to part shade | Wet to moist | 6–12 | 6–8 | Butterflies, bumblebees, hummingbirds |
These are seedlings, so every plant is genetically its own. Size and timing will vary a little from plant to plant.
Plant any time the seedlings are dormant and the ground isn't frozen. All five go in the same way.
On heavy clay, plant the redbud and beautyberry on a low mound 6 to 8 inches high. Buttonbush is the exception. It is happy in ground that stays wet.
The redbud opens the season. Its pink bloom covers bare branches in March and April, when little else is flowering.
Site. Sun to part shade in soil that drains. It tolerates clay as long as water doesn't stand. It is the only tree of the core three, so give it the back of the bed.
Bloom. Expect the first flowers 4 to 6 years after planting. The flowers are edible and make a tart, bright garnish for salads.
Pollinators. Early native bees and bumblebee queens work the flowers. Leafcutter bees later cut neat round notches from the leaves to line their nests. The notches are harmless and a sign the planting is doing its job.
Care. Redbuds resent being moved, so choose the spot once. Prune right after bloom, and only to remove dead or crossing branches. Water during dry spells for the first two summers.
Buttonbush wants the wettest spot you have. Its white pincushion flowers draw more butterflies than anything else in the box.
Site. Full sun to part shade in wet or reliably moist soil. Pond edges, ditches, rain gardens, and the low spot under a downspout all suit it. It tolerates standing water and struggles in dry ground.
Bloom. Fragrant, round white flowers open from June into August, usually starting 2 to 3 years after planting. Round seed heads follow and feed birds through winter.
Pollinators. Swallowtails and other butterflies, bumblebees, and hummingbirds all visit.
Care. Water weekly in dry weather until it is established, and longer if the site isn't naturally wet. It flowers on new growth, so prune in late winter. An overgrown shrub can be cut back to about a foot and will regrow. The leaves are toxic to livestock, so plant it outside the pasture fence.
Beautyberry feeds bees in summer and songbirds in fall. Its clusters of bright purple berries are the showiest thing in the bed from September on.
Site. Sun to part shade in moist soil that drains. More sun means more berries. Give it the front of the bed, where you can see the fruit.
Bloom and fruit. Small pink flowers open along the stems in June and July. Purple berries ripen in September and October and hang on after the leaves drop, often starting the second or third year.
Pollinators and birds. Bees and small butterflies work the flowers. Songbirds eat the berries through fall and early winter.
Winter. Beautyberry is reliably hardy to zone 6. In a hard winter the stems can die back to the ground. The plant resprouts from the base, and because it flowers on new growth, it still blooms and fruits that year. In zone 5, plant it in a sheltered spot and mulch the base heavily in late fall.
Care. Cut all stems back to about a foot in late winter for a fuller shrub and heavier fruit. Water during dry spells for the first two summers. It leafs out late, so don't give up on it in April.
The other seedlings change with the season and supply, so each one comes labeled with its name. Plant and care for them exactly as described in this guide, and use the label to choose the spot.
If the label says | Give it |
|---|---|
Tree, over 25 ft at maturity | The back row, 20 to 30 ft from other trees and buildings |
Small tree or large shrub, 10 to 25 ft | The back row, 10 to 15 ft from its neighbors |
Shrub, under 10 ft | The front row, 4 to 8 ft from its neighbors |
Full sun | 6 or more hours of direct sun |
Part shade | Morning sun and afternoon shade, or the edge of a tree's canopy |
Wet or moist soil | A low spot, a rain garden, or near a downspout |
Well-drained soil | A slope or a low mound, never where water stands |
When the label is missing or you aren't sure, plant in full sun and average soil, about 8 feet from its neighbors. Most native seedlings do well there, and a dormant plant can be moved the following winter.
Not sure what you received or where it should go? Email us a photo of the plant and your planting area, and we'll help you place it.
Water, weed control, and protection from deer decide whether a bare-root seedling makes it through year one. Everything else can wait.
Water. Give each plant 3 to 5 gallons once a week from leaf-out to leaf drop whenever rain falls short of an inch. One deep soak beats a daily sprinkle. Buttonbush wants more: soak it twice a week in dry weather.
Weeds. Keep the 3-foot circle clear of grass and top up the mulch each spring. Never use a string trimmer near the stem.
Deer. Keep a wire cage or 5-foot tube on each plant until it is growing strongly above browse height. Deer eat beautyberry and buttonbush foliage, and bucks rub young redbud trunks in fall.
Voles and rabbits. Wrap the base with an 18-inch cylinder of hardware cloth. Pull mulch back from the stem before winter so voles can't nest against the bark.
Pruning. Remove only broken or dead wood the first year.
Fertilizer. None in year one. From year two, a spring ring of compost under the mulch is plenty.
Pollinators. Skip insecticides on and around these plants, including lawn treatments that drift. Leave fallen leaves and old stems in place over winter, since many native bees and butterflies shelter in them.
Most first-year worries are normal behavior for a bare-root seedling. Check here before giving up on a plant.
Cercis canadensis (+ Callicarpa americana, Cephalanthus occidentalis)